i like having the option of turning lokka on or off
so its an eaton e locker for me
http://www.harrop.com.au/4wd_detail.php?prod=99-ELKR11250
so its an eaton e locker for me
http://www.harrop.com.au/4wd_detail.php?prod=99-ELKR11250
Mechanical front lokka issues
- Thread starter Yetti2688
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charlie strayarc
Member
4wd systems in south oz and the price was about $580 delivered if I remember correctly.
Fitted it myself with some clearance issues as I warned in other threads.
I'm very happy with mine and would do it again.
Only prob I can see would be compromised steering on steep,slippery descent. In this situation I would unlock one hub.
Peteyen86
Member
I did read a little about the clearance issues a while back now. What was the best way to overcome this when fitting? New shims or something were required wasn't it?
What do 4wd systems have to say about this? I would hate to pull the front diff apart only to find i needed to wait for parts to arrive.
Cheers Pete
NiftyNev
Member
The Lokka is one of the best things I have put in my Nav so far, that makes a difference to pure ability to get places. Obviously the beer fridge is the best for other reasons....
I find that I hardly have to use any right foot where as before I had to juggle speed and direction to make it up, now it just walks up anything I point it at, with out having to spin wheels etc. Few mates and I went up a few hills in North East tas (Mt Rattler from memory and then down to Rossarden and across the Mt Maurice track to Ltn) and one of the guys had a new Hilux with the lift kit etc, he struggle to get traction everywhere, and the Nissans just ate everything we threw at them. Was very satisfying ... :}
Well worth the money I spent to transform the ute in to something completely different, and if you are nice and gentle, I don't think you should do any damage until you push it to the extreme, which is when your likely to break something anyway.....
It does pull the steering around a lot more though, and a steering damper and idler arm brace are on my list of things to add...
I find that I hardly have to use any right foot where as before I had to juggle speed and direction to make it up, now it just walks up anything I point it at, with out having to spin wheels etc. Few mates and I went up a few hills in North East tas (Mt Rattler from memory and then down to Rossarden and across the Mt Maurice track to Ltn) and one of the guys had a new Hilux with the lift kit etc, he struggle to get traction everywhere, and the Nissans just ate everything we threw at them. Was very satisfying ... :}
Well worth the money I spent to transform the ute in to something completely different, and if you are nice and gentle, I don't think you should do any damage until you push it to the extreme, which is when your likely to break something anyway.....
It does pull the steering around a lot more though, and a steering damper and idler arm brace are on my list of things to add...
clearances depend a lot on how worn the diff is.
the gap clearance has a bit of leeway but the critical one is the difference between each side ie you want both halves to be the same distance from the crosspin.
failure to get that right can cause the small locker pins to break or in bad cases break the locker.
if ur putting a auto locker in a d40 u need to replace the seal where the cv shaft goes in on the drivers side cause when u pull the diff apart u need to pull that seal out to remove the c clip to get the inner shaft to pull out the center
the part no for a d40 2006 is 38342-ea000 and the other side is 40227-ea000 they cost about 20 bucks each
the part no for a d40 2006 is 38342-ea000 and the other side is 40227-ea000 they cost about 20 bucks each
4x4 ST-R
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charlie strayarc said:
Thanks mate. Il order mine tomorrow. Shh don't tell the missus. Haha.
I've read a fair bit about them now but haven't heard about downhill, but have always wondered. How is it compromised down hill? Is the compromise due to the Lokka allowing the wheels to spin faster than the diff speed, but never slower? So allowing the fronts to actually speed up and not use engine braking through all 4 wheels? Or am I totally off track?
charlie strayarc
Member
Others will be able to explain it better than me but here goes anyway,
These things should be called an auto unlocker because there locked until the tyres have enough traction when turning to unlock the diff allowing outside wheel to rotate differently to inside wheel. In sand and more in mud the vehicle will plow straight ahead somewhat and this is exagerated with the lokka. This could be a problem on slippery descents because your steering will be a bit unresponsive. Unlock one hub and it will be the same as no locker.
I googled how a diff works ,researched lockers, auto and manual operated, weighed up the price differances and decided an auto "lokka" would do me.
charlie strayarc
Member
Yep had to make my own shims.
Ended up having two goes at it, after putting it back together while I made em up. 4wd systems sent me out some shims but they were still to thick.
Glad I did it myself, so i know its right.
Most mechanics would have probably just whacked it together not caring to much.
Overall it was 0.5mm too tight until i got it right.
0.5mm is alot especially when its my fucking diff.
I posted up info in 180degree Joes how to thread and foxbats piccy test thread.
charlie strayarc
Member
I concur with Nifty and would add that I dont think they make a vehicle a lot more capable in sand/beach.
Ive just come back from a play in dunes with a d22 with no front locker and there was no noticable differance between his and mine.
These things come into there own when weight is off one wheel, the one on the ground gets just as much torque? as the one in the air.
Dont take my word for it fellas, do your own research and learn how lockers work and then you will realise an auto locker is good bang for buck.
charlie strayarc
Member
Today I went for a quick play at Mundaring powerlines, and stuffed about as much as I could on slippery descents steering back and forth, the steering was fine and handled quite ok. I am no hard core 4wdriver by any means but I cannot fault these lokkas.
I have had my front LOKKA in for about 2 months now and have had some problems with it. First trip to Julimar state forrest, I couldn't fault it. Second trip down to Harvey is where I started having problems. Transmission locked up on we just after doing a hill climb and stalled the Nav. Restarted it but went to take off and it stalled again. Put it in 2WD and it drove fine. I then replaced the transfer case chain as it was stretched. I then headed up to the pines to test out the new chain and the Nav locked up on me again! I highly doubt I have had enough time to stretch the T case chain again. I am now starting to wonder if it is the front diff??
I took the front diff to a reputable gearbox place to have the locker installed so it wasn't a dodgy backyard job. I am now left wondering if they haven't installed something properly or the backlash between the crown and pinion gears is too tight, causing the diff to seize on me? Anyone's help or opinion on what I should look for when I pull the diff out and open it up would be much appreciated.
I took the front diff to a reputable gearbox place to have the locker installed so it wasn't a dodgy backyard job. I am now left wondering if they haven't installed something properly or the backlash between the crown and pinion gears is too tight, causing the diff to seize on me? Anyone's help or opinion on what I should look for when I pull the diff out and open it up would be much appreciated.
pointblank5
Member
Just keep the hubs unlocked, the gearbox in 2WD, and you should be able to turn the front prop shaft by hand and see both the cv's turning the same way. If you can do this then I'd say your diff isn't the problem
Put it in 2WD, locked hubs and drove it today, apart from slightly stiff steering the car drove fine. Put it into 4WD and yet again the front made an almighty groan and stalled.
Tried to turn the prop shaft by hand today. it turned abit then the LOKKA engaged and I couldnt turn it.
Tried to turn the prop shaft by hand today. it turned abit then the LOKKA engaged and I couldnt turn it.
04SilverSTR
Member
deff sounds like something isnt right in the diff, with the hubs unlocked i can spin the prop shaft and inturn see the the cv shafts spinning with ease!
bryan
bryan
Im deffs gonna pull the diff apart this weekend and re install the LOKKA, take it for a test drive and if its still not right take it to my local mechanic for a second opinion. If the LOKKA is the cause of the issues then Im gonna put front and rear E lockers in it when my tax return gets done!
bods
Member
Sounds like something isn't right. From reading other threads on here of peoples installs I'd say it could be a shim problem as you said. If they just put it in using the parts supplied there's a very good chance the backlash isn't right, especially if they didn't check it...
I'd be taking it back and making them fix it, or was it a cashie job?
I'd be taking it back and making them fix it, or was it a cashie job?
04SilverSTR
Member
dont give up on the lokka just yet, they are a good thing when working properly
