Power loss after engine swap

[nuggetx1]

Recently cooked the ZD30 in my nav. I've had it replaced with a motor from a wreckers. The replacement motor seems to run sweet but is down maybe 10% on power. Only really notice it when the motor is under load such as hill starts, towing, or at 80kmh plus.
So I'm looking for ideas as to what could be the cause. Haven't tried much yet, just new fuel filter and running injector cleaner in the fuel. Suggestions welcomed.

 

[Old.Tony]

I'd examine smoke levels first. If there's a lot of black smoke at that time, the overfuelling might be due to an air intake restriction - could either be filter/passage blockage or a turbocharger that isn't providing as much boost as expected. That's not necessarily due to a turbocharger that's failing, it might be a MAPS sensor (even just its connection), or a boost leak.

Simple things to check before spending money. Which injector cleaner did you use? I always recommend Liqui Moly Fuel Cleaner/Conditioner. I've used it and have been very pleasantly surprised with the results.

 

[nuggetx1]

Cheers for the input. The turbo is a forefront carried over from the old motor and has only been on for 10k so I'm assuming its still good. Although does seem to take longer to spool up for some reason. Noticed one of the silicon hoses looking a bit 2nd hand so will swap that out, but haven't heard any boost leaks.
Injector cleaner was from super crap, calibre (?) brand I think.
Doesn't blow any smoke.
How do I tell if MAP sensor is dodgy?
Thanks

 

[nuggetx1]

So swapped in a mates MAP senor and couldn't notice any difference, so assuming that's not the culptrit. Unless its damaged wiring somewhere?
Contemplating getting a cable to read the ECU. Can anyone confirm that its the one for $105 I need? http://www.ecutalk.com/interface.aspx Cheeper else where?
Cheers

 

[Old.Tony]

Swapping the sensor would probably fix debris in the connector anyway so let's forget the MAPS. The ZD30 does speak an old OBD language so the newer methods ($5 bluetooth dongle and free software) don't work but I'm not sure it's worth a $105 cable, surely there are cheaper versions out there that do the same job?

 

[Rumpig]

Swapping the sensor would probably fix debris in the connector anyway so let's forget the MAPS. The ZD30 does speak an old OBD language so the newer methods ($5 bluetooth dongle and free software) don't work but I'm not sure it's worth a $105 cable, surely there are cheaper versions out there that do the same job?

Not really Tony. That's the cable we all use. You need the software (free) from the same site.

 

[D21-DX2.7D]

G'day jut a few questions,
How many Km's has the second hand motor done? and is the engine doing any kind of surging? (my td27 was down on power and surging ended up being clogged air assembly)

Power and torque between engines can differ but nothing really noticeable. IMO it could be just a tired engine, damaged MAP wiring should send engine warning light on and cut off turbo (no airflow info being sent). Because of the EGR I suggest pop the hood and with a mate rev the car and see if the waste gate is open/jamming on boost if that's not the issue remove MAP sensor and clean out insert tube with a drill bit. it maybe a fuel issue even though it can be pricey a tune could gain back that lost power, go see a specialist for a quote you'll be surprised what they can do.

my two cents.
Mat

 

[nuggetx1]

Thanks Rumpig.

Motor was meant to have 140k on it. No surging or drama of any kind, just no power in reserve. A tune is on the cards but figure it will be a waste of time if somethings not running right in the first place. Can these be tuned in real time? Or only by swapping out the ECU?
Have ordered the cable and will stick a boost gauge on and see if they can tell me anything useful.
Cheers

 

[Rumpig]

Unichip is the only real time tuning option. Ecutalk shows boost, you just have to subtract 14.7 from it to get actual. ICV% at idle should be around 40.

Here's everything it shows.

 

[Rumpig]

Wouldn't hurt to try a TPS relearn either, once it's warm leave it idle for 10 minutes.

 

[nuggetx1]

Well the good times continue. Came back from fishing to find that power had been cut while the ute was parked and locked. ODO and clock had reset, couldn't find anything loose and no repeat since Thursday???

Also had the engine light start flashing yesterday but only did it for one 5 minute drive to the boat ramp (separate fishing trip). Not the 5 minutes it was running before that to get the boat out of shed, nor on the return trip from the ramp.
Maybe it gets separation anxiety when I go fishing.....

Have already tried the tps reset with no noticeable change. Theres a thread somewhere saying that you can reset the ecu by just turning the ignition to on and leaving it for half an hour? Is that a thing? Anyone noticed improvements after doing it?

Hopefully that cable turns up soon. Does the ECU store error codes that it has displayed or need to be current to work out whats going on?

Cheers

 

[jonney]

with the ECU, you disconnect the main power battery and then turn on the headlight switch / ignition switch as well and leave for around 15 minutes. this darians all disidual power from the ECU as opposed to just disconnecting the battery.

 

[Rumpig]

The ecu stores codes and usually tells you how many starts it's occurred for. It's unusual for the odometer to be reset, it's stored on a chip in the dash not the ecu. Flashing engine light is the warning for water in the fuel filter.

 

[nuggetx1]

Thanks Rumpig, by odometer I meant the trip meters. Did recently fuel up so could be dodgy fuel I guess. Weird that it would go away though?
Thanks Jonney will give that a crack after I get any codes out of it.

 

[nuggetx1]

Progress. Well potentially. Got the Ecutalk hooked up and its telling me fault code 1004 (fuel cut system 1) and code 47 (crank pos sen(TDC)) both for 16 starts (which is well under the number of times its been used since the engine swap).
So I guess the question is what to do with said info? Clear the codes to see if there is any change and if they come back?

 

[Rumpig]

Going of the d22 manual 1004 can only be an electrical problem but it could have something to do with 0407 so i'd get the crank sensor checked first then see if the codes come back. Check the plug on the vp44 to, both codes could come from a bad connection there.

 

[jack2840]

gday
Just thinking it might be worth checking the voltage, and the earth wireing on the motor I have heard they can cause some problems
good luck