recovery hook

[Al]

i think thats what tweake meant by sideways also. looks good joelus

 

[tweak'e]

yeah. tho that look likes its mounted off the arb bar rather than off the orginal tow mounts.
tho i was looking at bolt them on from the outside so i could bolt a bracing plate on to the chassi to stop it twisting sideways.

 

[joelus]

yeah. tho that look likes its mounted off the arb bar rather than off the orginal tow mounts.
tho i was looking at bolt them on from the outside so i could bolt a bracing plate on to the chassi to stop it twisting sideways.

you mean further back where your crossmember is? You gotta have em out the front so that they are easily accessible. You want it fairly well in line with your chassis as well, which brings up your side angle issues as previously stated.

 

[tweak'e]

you can't fit them any further forward due to the crush zone in the chassi. unless of course you fit a bar first.
should still be able to get at it tho. not to sure about side angles.

 

[joelus]

oh yeah i see what you mean, sorry mate i didnt realise you didnt have a bullbar, cause that changes everything... I think if you mounted a brace on it it would work fine on the chassis, should be really strong anyway.

 

[cabhsv]

Here is some pics of my recovery hook set up, I machined and drilled and tapped holes so that I could pick up the factory holes in the chassis as the hole center in the hook are smaller.

 

[tweak'e]

one hook is finally installed.

still to be tidied up but you get the idea.
was looking at welding a gusset on the angle iron to brace it up a bit more.
mind you its proberly fine like that, that steel is thicker than the sides of the chassi combined.

 

[Bosshog]

I been playing with the standard eyelet hook on my D40. Apart from the fact that the larger Bow Shackle in the ARB recovery kit doesn't fit (which is annoying). I was not too sure about the strength of the whole thing. So I fitted up some stainless steel inserts and matching stainless bolts. The strap will now break before the hook does. Thinking I might get another one off a wreck as it will bolt straight up on the drivers side.

 

[roundy]

I just ended up doing as shonky and drilled a hole. Getting the nut started was a PITA!

 

[tweak'e]

for those doing it that way, you should really fit a bit of flat steel between hook and chassis and put a bolt into the rear nut. that should spread the load, especially as the nav is only 3mm chassis. you will rip those bolts out well before any strap or hook breaks.

getting the nut in there and being able to tighten it up was my main reason for not doing it that way. especially with nylocs.

does any one know exactly what the factory thread is in those captive nuts.

 

[Sig620]

I'd be worried about drilling a chassis, doesn't always go to well

 

[Jason]

Look at the profile of the section of road he has just driven over.

Ouch.

 

[maddogrc]

just had a check under my 2wd and its got the 2 very spaced holes at either side on the chassis

imho the chassis looks a bit thin? 2-3mm steel where it seems like it would bolt up?

when you put the hook on does the bolt go through the whole chassis rail or do you need to get a nut inside the chassis rail and then a bolt going through the hook and bottom part of the chassis rail and into the nut?

cheers

 

[tweak'e]

yeah its only 3mm chassis i think.

some of the guys (as in the pics above) have been bolting the hooks to those chassi nuts.
you have to drill the chassi and get a nut inside for one of the bolts.
would be better to go get nissan hooks that have the proper spacing and use the proper size bolts.

problem is see with useing stock location is you will bend the chassi out before the hooks every let go.

however with 2wd your not as likly to get stuck as bad as a 4wd. you could just use the stock D's with shackles.

 

[maddogrc]

currently i use bow shackles and put them onto the front recovery points (when the bullbar is installed it uses the stock recovery hole so the front of the bullbar has a bit sticking out and a hole through it) which is around 5mm thick? it does the job pulling me up hills n out of bogs, but if i somehow got stuck in deep sand or mud i'd use double shackles and an equaliser strap for safety and equaling the load

i just thought a recovery hook could be a slightly better alternative, but i'd at least want something proper.

oh well

 

[Matt - VNET Pro]

heres mine, i used the 2 factory threads. hooks are outback ideas, just had them repowdercoated a couple of weeks ago in their brightest red.

G'Day woznme,
Just bought a pair of these recovery points same as yours you have installed, can you remember what size bolts you had to use at all?
Cheers Matt

 

[Al]

i remember it was a M12 but i can't remember what thread? i went with a 40 or 50mm long bolt. You'll also need a rats tail file to elongate the holes a tiny bit as the holes are drilled for the Landcruiser 100 and the navs holes are a very tiny bit wider. doesn't take too much. it goes without saying to use high tensile bolts and high tensile flat washers and spring washers. Oh and don't be concerned about making the hole elongated as the GU factory hook had one round hole and one elongated as standard.

edit : M12x1.25 bolts

 

[Jason]

I measured those holes and think I came up with 72mm between centres. I would be interested in knowing the bolt dimensions needed as well.

 

[rescue]

no offence woznme but from what i can gather that setup is not good at all.
the idea of hooks is that they straigten out and let the load go when they fail. shackles and D's (sorry not sure of proper name) is that when they fail they break creating missles flying back to the towing vechile.

just been reading a few bits on bolt sizes. the stock captive nuts are proberly to small anyway.

If you're stuck so badly that you manage to straighten out the standard recovery points before the bolts (non rated also) let go then you have a whole heap of other problems that even rated points won't fix....

 

[tweak'e]

good to see this being bumped back to the top

If you're stuck so badly that you manage to straighten out the standard recovery points before the bolts (non rated also) let go then you have a whole heap of other problems that even rated points won't fix....

i'm not to sure what your on about. D22 doesn't have any standard bolted on recovery points. it has two towing/lashing points that are welded on (which is what i bolted my hook onto).
D40 i think comes with some bolted on, to much pulling on those tends to buckle the chassi.

the basic aftermarket hooks are not hugely strong even tho its rare to break them. its quite possibly to bog a vehicle enough that one won't handle it. to me thats a good thing. i would rather have the hook bend out than the chassis ripped off.
got some pics somewhere of a vehicle that they ripped the last foot of chassis off. you can get some big power when your snatching which is what makes it so dangerous.

i'll still stand by my point, i would rather have hook straighten out and let the bungy go than have a D break and send metal flying at high speed, or even worse have the D stay together and the chassis ripped off.