Steering!

[tatty]

So, after pulling out a leaking pump, rebuilding it to brand new, replacing so much crap while I had it open, and bolting it back on, I'm now getting a whinging pump. She sounds like she's having a moose tear her to bits. Now, I've done almost every trick there is to bleeding the system but just haven't got her sounding nice yet. I jacked her up, twisted left and right about 20 times, idled, off, left right etc again. Still noisy. Ok off goes the car, so I cracked the top banjo, started going left right abbout another 10 times to help the bubbles escape. But still no luck.

Hints? Tips? This is a really bugger and I need my car on the road soon!

 

[tatty]

No one out there???

 

[nakedape]

No one out there???

Hey tatty.

Have got the service manual? Search for it on here & see if there is a bleeding procedure in it.

You rebuilt the pump? Are you sure its got air in the system and that it's not cavitating (i.e. forcing gases out of the oil on the pressurized side of the pump)? This can happen when the high pressure fluid suddenly enters a lower pressure space. Pumps generally operate just below the thresh-hold of cavitation and a slight increase in pressure (caused by lots of variables) sees it pop into a cavitating state - just a thought.

Good luck.

 

[Old.Tony]

We're here and the thread had been viewed 19 times before I looked at it but obviously nobody has an answer for it yet.

If you're sure it's air then there's got to be something keeping the air in there. The manual (for the D40) says that to bleed the power steering fluid, you should turn the steering with the engine OFF (not idling) and maintain fluid in the reservoir at all times. It says nothing more about it.

 

[joshman]

I imagine it's like bleeding your brakes or clutch, keep fluid in the reservoir at all times, and twist your steering wheel side to side to "pump" the steering fluid through the system.

I've not looked into how to bleed a steering system yet, but it's on the list.

 

[tatty]

I've tried both ways of bleeding like you mentioned Tony but neither work. It's just being difficult.
Nakedape, do you know how to fix cavitation? It never occured to me that could be the issue.
Josh, as it's a pump, not a rack, it basically needs to get fluid into the pump. Whilst twisting the wheel should work, it's not...

 

[nakedape]

Nakedape, do you know how to fix cavitation? It never occured to me that could be the issue.

It's been a good few years since I've pulled apart an hydraulic pump - and even then if we found signs of cavitation it was more cost effective to 1) ditch them 2) send them to someone else to rebuild.

here's some reading:

http://www.pumpworld.com/troubleS2.htm

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/531/hydraulic-root-causes

http://www.enggcyclopedia.com/2011/11/pump-cavitation-causes/

Sorry - best I could find with the 5 minutes available.

 

[tatty]

I made a video, what do ya'll think? It makes the noise when I twist the wheel towards full lock.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CSEHoamJ_cc&feature=youtu.be

 

[tatty]

Fixed it. When I rebuilt the pump, I put the cam circle around the wrong way. The manual between the d21 and d22 are different, and thus there was a confusion as to which was it should be put in. The vanes had slipped down into one of the pockets because the cam circle didn't allow for it, and caused the wheel to spin against the vane. Fortunately, no damage was done, simply pulled it apart and put it the right way round.