Surely i'm not the first person to do this

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Mick C

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Hi all I want to fit a secondary filter on my D40 auto (Spanish built 2008) but I'm told there isn't a kit that will fit. Has anyone got any pics of one installed and where they got the kit from
Thanks
Mick
 
Thanks for the reply. The problem I have is where the filter is mounted in the pics there is some sort of sensor mounted in that space which leaves no room for the filter.
Mick
 
I wonder why they exclude DPF models. There's no extra junk in the engine bay, the DPF is under the passenger! There is room near the left headlight (edge of the radiator mount), more space near the ABS unit too.
 
Excuse my ignorance in asking......why do you need a second filter? If you don't think the first filter is up to the job why not improve that rather than fit a second. If you had a weak lock you would just fit a second lock, you'd replace the lock.
 
I want to install a primary filter with the water bowl on the bottom ie Stanadyne. Its cheap insurance compared to new injectors and a pump. But you have me thinking now. Why not replace the factory filter with an after market one?
 
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I think YBOD is asking why not just replace the factory filter with a better one. I can't fault the argument at all - technically speaking it's better for the engine, it's simpler, it requires no lift pump, less hose joins for fewer potential leaks - I really can't see any reason why you WOULD keep the original filter. Add to this that the OEM filter is a bloody pig with aftermarket modules - the inner seal just never seats right, causing air to get in and fuel to return to the tank overnight - and fitting a second filter just starts to pale a little compared to replacing the Nissan filter.

Your improved filter is still better insurance - and by simplifying it, removing the need for a lift pump and reducing hose joins, I think that makes it even better again.
 
Excuse my ignorance in asking......why do you need a second filter? If you don't think the first filter is up to the job why not improve that rather than fit a second. If you had a weak lock you would just fit a second lock, you'd replace the lock.

The other thing to keep in mind is the system is designed to push fuel through a particular size of filter, so if you go to fine it puts strain on the pump and can cause premature failure.
So by adding a "pre filter which only catches larger particles and water you are allowing the main filter to work more efficiently.
 
I think YBOD is asking why not just replace the factory filter with a better one. I can't fault the argument at all - technically speaking it's better for the engine, it's simpler, it requires no lift pump, less hose joins for fewer potential leaks - I really can't see any reason why you WOULD keep the original filter. Add to this that the OEM filter is a bloody pig with aftermarket modules - the inner seal just never seats right, causing air to get in and fuel to return to the tank overnight - and fitting a second filter just starts to pale a little compared to replacing the Nissan filter.

Your improved filter is still better insurance - and by simplifying it, removing the need for a lift pump and reducing hose joins, I think that makes it even better again.

I never needed a lift pump and neither does my cousins Hilux, the ift pump on a common rail is easily up to the task of pumping through the 30micron pre filter
 
I think I will replace the factory filter with a stanadyne unit. It should be easier than trying to squeeze a second filter in.
 
I had trouble when i first fitted mine but that was due to me not sealing the threads properly on the bloody thing which i only noticed after i removed it and had it laying on its side..
I refitted it about 12 months ago and has been faultless since..
 
Thanks for all the feed back everyone. I had another look today and there is room on the passengers side just behind the headlight, so thats another option and ill be able to retain the original filter as well.
 
A couple of pics of the 30 micron Stanadyne pre-filter unit on my 2013 D40 auto
The location is fairly tight, fabricated my own bracket from an offcut of 2mm thick150 C section, only downside is that two bolts need to be undone to lift up and drain or change element, welded the nuts to the bracket to make that easier
Just remember that diesel on the electricals = disaster, so at least with this setup I can lift up and place in a bowl to drain or change element
Fitted pre-filter only because mine is still under warranty and I didn't want to install anything between the OEM filter and the injection system. When that has expired I will probably install a Stanadyne final filter
Cheers
John
 

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Forgot to mention, don't be tempted to use BSP fittings in a Standyne (or other US made filter housing). Correct thread is NPT (1/4" from memory), I had some difficulty obtaining the right fittings.
Also, do not use thread tape, just apply a small amount of a fuel resistant thread sealing compound, leaving the first full thread clean
Cheers
John
 
A couple of pics of the 30 micron Stanadyne pre-filter unit on my 2013 D40 auto
The location is fairly tight, fabricated my own bracket from an offcut of 2mm thick150 C section, only downside is that two bolts need to be undone to lift up and drain or change element, welded the nuts to the bracket to make that easier
Just remember that diesel on the electricals = disaster, so at least with this setup I can lift up and place in a bowl to drain or change element
Fitted pre-filter only because mine is still under warranty and I didn't want to install anything between the OEM filter and the injection system. When that has expired I will probably install a Stanadyne final filter
Cheers
John

Thanks for the reply John and the pictures. I will be installing mine in a few weeks, good advice on the fittings as well
 

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