Roof Mounted Spotties

Ok, So now that I have ordered the Rigid Industries 40” E Series LED Light Bar from Snake Racing I need to get power to the Roof preferably the front near where the roof rack will sit.

On a Previous NM Pajero I owned I had 4 Lightforce 170's on the roof which ARB Ozzy Park Fitted for me But they Drilled through the roof.....

Not too thrilled to do that to a week old D40... has anybody got any suggestions on how I might be able to do this??

Cheers
Matt

Nice. been thinkin bout getting one of these. Got a snorkel? run it up the side of that is the easiest way. Mine go through a grommet in the rear wall.

Good thinking Joshy,
I like it a lot, But I don't have a snorkel at the moment will have to add it to the Shopping List....


Matt

PS would still like to here from anyone who has done it without a snorkel too.

joshy said:

Nice. been thinkin bout getting one of these. Got a snorkel? run it up the side of that is the easiest way. Mine go through a grommet in the rear wall.

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Hi Joshy,

Have you got the lights yet, what do you think??

Nah not yet, sorta down the list of priorities for the budget.

i mounted an oversize load ahead and rotating beacons on a customers brand new patrol a couple of years back. obviously i wasnt going to drill any hols in the roof a a $60,000 wagon. the frame i made for fold-down sign and beacons simply clamped onto rhino roof racks with stainless u-bolts and as the beacobs were mounted to the rear of this frame i ran the wiring up the back of the left rear door seat channel. wiring was secured in a panel seam at the top rear corner with black sikaflex which i covered with cling wrap and taped into place until dry. the patrol uses a gutterless roof rack mount the same as d40 so i was able to position rack directly where wiring came out, wiring covered with convoluted tubing (i use non split tubing but split works fine, you could heatshrink if you want) and cable tied to rack.
you could do the same with a sinle roof rack mounted as far forward as possioble abd bring wiring up front of front left door seal (i use left side as it gets opened alot less than right).

another option would be to remove overhead console and run wiring thru antenna hole and mount aftermarket antenna on roofrack too?

note, cling wrap on sika or silastic will give smoother and cleaner finish. once dry cling wrap should just peel off. of couse do a test run with whatever adhesive you decide to use just tobe sure.

check out pics of my canopy roofmount rallye 4000 spotties, not quite as flash as rigid lightbar but very effective. only problem with roof mounts is the reflection of sighns, i dont like seeing overtaking lane ahead signs anymore, they are very reflective.
also, in light rain or fog (yeah i know, low beam thru fog) i can see two big streams of light from roof but all in all a small price to pay for being able to blind those bastard truckies who dont seem to think cars need to see where they are going, cop that f@#kers!

only thing i'd change about mine is i'd use 4 lights instead of 2 but only because it'd look better, probably a bit heavy for a fibreglass canopy roof trhough.

Yeah 4 lights creates a hell of a lot of drag.
I had 4 cibie oscars mounted to an alloy trade rack on my old RA rodeo the wind resistance was so great it bent the rack backwards peeling at the welds did this twice.
they became possum hunting lights by the end of the trip.

Have you looked into taking it up through where the antenna sits in the middle of roof? Alternatively, I'd run it up the back of the cab like Josh recommended.

Good luck

Or run the wiring out through the cabin vent behind the rear seat on the LHS and the up between the cab and ute tub?