Chainsaw question

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Flynndog

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What would cause my chainsaw to cut halfway through, say a 300mm log, then stop cutting?

Something slipping? Just got it back from Stihl and they say it's fine.

Seems really odd.

Thanks

Flynny
 
Clogged up filter, shitty wood, not enough oil on the chain, there is quite a few things that could be the cause. We had an old Stihl that did a similar thing, was only a 16 inch so we didn't use it often but the bastard would just cut out no matter what we did to it in the end we found it was a bearing. Chainsaws are like brush cutters, fickle fcuken pricks of things that never behave when you want them too.
 
when you say stops cutting, does it stop running or is it still revving but just not getting anywhere? and is it cutting straight? or is the cut on curve if you look at the cut from the side?
 
Father in laws stihl did the same thing - was bearings. That's why i'm sticking with my Mac - not saying its better, just cheaper.
 
thew things it can be as said above but it looks like it's chain related if the chain still spinning it's probley uneven rakes (on either side), chain blunt on one side or the bar might need redressing, if you have a second chain you will know if it's chain related.
 
We stopped buying them too. Haven't been out carting logs for a while now but we replaced all the Stihls with Husky's.
 
I have an 036, 066, 2x088's all pretty good except the 088's can be pigs in the cold weather, Dont have a problem with husky's they are good aswell.
 
sueprised at some of you having problems, ive got a 25 yr old farm boss. aside from an annual service new chains n bar, its always started first time every time and Ive never had a drama with it. maybe they dont make em like they use to.
 
sueprised at some of you having problems, ive got a 25 yr old farm boss. aside from an annual service new chains n bar, its always started first time every time and Ive never had a drama with it. maybe they dont make em like they use to.

Agree
 
If yours has been to Stihl this won't help, unless they did SFA.

Mine has had heaps of caked on sawdust around the clutch and brake which has stopped the crankshaft/chain rotating.

To check you just need to take the circlip off the drive sprocket and remove the drive sprocket.

My saw would be about 12 years old and has copped heaps of abuse and given the lack of maintenance, it has stood up well. Always keep a few starter pawl's on hand however.
 
I used to have the problem because I'd sharpen the chain better on one side than the other, which no longer happens now that I use a grinding machine. With the uneven sharpening, the chain would cut better on one side, cutting through in a curve - and then jamming the bar in the log.
 
That sounds like every trip for firewood we would do as kids - the old man could sharpen one side a treat, not so the other :rolleyes:
 
sueprised at some of you having problems, ive got a 25 yr old farm boss. aside from an annual service new chains n bar, its always started first time every time and Ive never had a drama with it. maybe they dont make em like they use to.

That's true, we had 2 x 076's which were 15+ years old when we lost them in the Black Saturday fires. We didn't use them when we were out carting logs because the Husky's were more powerful but they were still used around the properties at the time.
 
That sounds like every trip for firewood we would do as kids - the old man could sharpen one side a treat, not so the other :rolleyes:

Our resident farmers aid 2 years ago who knew nothing about everything did a chainsaw handlers course so that he could do garden maintenance and he came away from that course with the skills to use a chainsaw like a hand saw continually running it in a backwards and forwards motion through the timber and the ability to sharpen one side of the chain badly and the other side worse.

Sharpening a saw with a file is a piece of piss but so few people actually learn to do it properly. Learn to do it once with a file and you will learn how to do it anywhere from the workshop to leaning on the back of the ute in the bush and it will be perfect everytime.
 
You first need to understand the shape of the cutting edge of teeth - then keep that shape in mind. Not terribly hard, but difficult for the impatient old bugga.
 
So, where does one learn this sharpening Majik? Any advise as I was born and raised in an industrial town in the UK only coming into contact with chainsaws two years ago when my wife bought me one for Christmas as a surprise because "it was bright yellow and looked kinda grrrr" and therefore something I'd like.......she was right.
 
I think the only way to learn if from a guy who does it and does it often. My old Neighbour used to have to sharpen his saw multiple times a day, most of the time he was sitting on the tree he's just fallen to do the job, no vises, no special tools, not even a file guide, jsut touch and the knowledge of what he was trying to achieve.

Failing that talk to a chainsaw shop, unfortunately not all of these are good any more because if it's like our local Stihl dealer he brought into the business when he got a pay out from his previous job and really didn't have any long term experience in the use of what he sells, but if you can find a store owner who's been in the business a long time you've got half a chance. (Just promise the bloke that you'll keep bringing the saw back for a service and full going over so that he still thinks he will get business from you)

As ape says the first thing you need is the understanding, then you need the patience, once you get the knowledge that turns to skill and patience isn't such a big thing because you can sharpen a 36 inch bar in less time than it takes to have a smoke.
 
I did small motors by trade in a large mowershop ect the worst we used to see was folk putting the chain on backwards and trying to cut a log and getting the chain so hot the cutters would melt then come back demanding warranty i kid you not.
 
Bought a chainsaw - mainly for use when camping.
Had it fitted with a "power sharp" chain.
For an occasional user I find it great and fast to sharpen.

Powersharp.com
 
As said above if you sharpen a chain all the time it's easy, if you don't do it that often then buying a chain sharpener would be a good idea, but if not you just have to remember that you must sharpen each tooth the same amount of times and if you hit a rock you need to file it right back until the teeth are even on both sides, and when you have filed each tooth a quarter of the way to its wear mark you will need to get a rake file and start filling them down as well you may need a rake gauge to do this.
 

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