D22 Engine Run-in

[BrisVegasBretto]

Hi all,

I’ve recently purchased myself a new D22 Navara. Never owning a 4WD before I was looking for something new, but entry level, affordable, yet considered reliable. Given that I’ve somewhat rushed into the purchase and still a little bit under prepared I have some beginners questions I was hoping someone could help with.

Diesel Engine Run-in
I’ve read a number of online articles on how to properly run in a new diesel engine. Seeing as how most of the articles are about 8 – 10 years old I’m wondering if they are still relevant?

At any rate what is the best way to run in a new D22 Navara Engine?

So far I’ve just been driving it the way I would any new car. Not over revving, but at the same time not babying the car. Steering clear of any road which demands constant speed and revs over long distances. I’ve only had the car 4 days. Currently it’s getting me to and from work. Fortunately I’ve managed to dodge peak hour traffic avoiding excessive stays at lights with the engine idling.

The D22 manual suggests I should stick with this routine for around 1,600kms, however people I work with have suggested distances around the 3,000 – 5,000km mark.

Some other questions:
How prevalent is engine cylinder glazing in modern diesels?
How long should I run-in the engine?
How long till I’m able to take it off road (general beach driving)

Any help is appreciated. Cars/Trucks etc… aren’t exactly my strong point.

 

[terryc]

I'm in the same boat, er wheels.

I've just been following the manual, but since neither of us drives to work each day, have only put just over 300kms on the new vehicle in the last 3 weeks.

In another three weeks, it will probably get its first freeway run, but apart from that, we will just keep driving it gently and taking it easy for as long as possible. I want to get 400-500k out of this vehicle..

At this rate, it will take us a year to get 10K kms up.

I think the 3-5K recommendations are petrol engines. Caveat, it is 18 years since we last ran in any new vehicle (petrol).

As far as I can work out from the manual, they just want you to not rev (<3K rpm) the guts out of it for as long as you can.

Probably wise to at least wait till the 1,000 km inspection and let them give it the once over, then you can disengage the front hubs until you really need them.

Also, heed the warning in other messages about 4x4 on hard surfaces.

Also welcome

 

[fzrr]

I'm also interested on information here as I pick up my new D22 STR on Friday and its the first diesel vehicle I'll have owned. This article seemed to have good info.

TheDieselStop.Com - www.thedieselstop.com

 

[KraftyPg]

This has been asked a few times and generally the answers vary along the lines of treat it nice for a 1000ks or thereabouts. There is no magical figure that you reach where you can start towing or red lining it but use common sense, if the things just off the showroom floor treat it a little nice, if you need to tow something, still treat it nice. You aren't going to kill it just because you towed something or hit 4000 RPM, but that doesn't mean you should do it.

 

[scottd22]

I picked up my STR last Friday. The dealer told me to avoid getting the engine bogged down in low revs for 1000ks and my mechanic tells me to take it easy on the clutch till it beds in. Also for the first 30k the motor will be pretty tight, so fuel economy will improve after that.

 

[Krankin]

mechanic tells me to take it easy on the clutch till it beds in.

same with the brakes,

tho checked my rear brakes at 10,000 and the linings still were'nt in complete contact with the drums.

Had to also degrease one side from oil at assembly all over one shoe.
brakes work better now.

 

[Aido]

Oh shit......three new owners.

1800 035 035. Store that in your phone for when you need to confirm that incompetence and stupidity is alive and well.

Follow the manual. Dont load the engine and keep it spinning through the rev range. Most vehicle manufactures install mineral oil at the factory to allow rings, plain bearings and moving parts to bed in - but Nissan may not since they cannot even install the correct diff oil. Best of luck fellas and by all means if there is anything so slight that does not seem right with your vehicle get it down to the stealership and report it but don't give them a hard time because they have to deal with the same f'wits at Nissan Australia.

 

[Dave]

My 2006 model has done 191,000km's now and for the first 5000km's I didn't take it over 80km's a hour.

Doesn't burn any oil and is running beautifully.

Dave.

 

[SUNDAY]

well well well, thanks heaps all of u, im still waiting on my call telling me mine is in n ready 4 me, hahaha, but this thread was gr8 and helpfull. thanks

 

[Azza]

Well I went a bit opposite to everyone else, I gave it a boot full from day one. I've run in many race bikes and those in the know flog their new bikes as they seem to get better preformance out of them once the rings bed in. I picked up my car from Sydney with 2kms on the clock, drove it at 110kph for 3 hrs back to Canberra. I towed with it later in the week all under 1000kms. Did the oil change at 1000 and came out filthy as expected, now I just do oil and filter every 5000 and so far I haven't had a mechanical issue.

Time will tell as to how the engine holds up, I've got a chip and exhaust fitted as well and it hauls, go past D4D hilux's and they shake their heads

 

[tommy222220_0]

As everyone else has said Take it easy, vary the revs and load on the engine. dont over or under rev.

But after that give it a boot full every now and then and get it working hard up some hills/sand dunes. Mine seems to go a bit better after a day on the dunes.

 

[fzrr]

Well I went a bit opposite to everyone else, I gave it a boot full from day one. I've run in many race bikes and those in the know flog their new bikes as they seem to get better preformance out of them once the rings bed in. I picked up my car from Sydney with 2kms on the clock, drove it at 110kph for 3 hrs back to Canberra. I towed with it later in the week all under 1000kms. Did the oil change at 1000 and came out filthy as expected, now I just do oil and filter every 5000 and so far I haven't had a mechanical issue.

Time will tell as to how the engine holds up, I've got a chip and exhaust fitted as well and it hauls, go past D4D hilux's and they shake their heads

I've also broken in my motorcycles in similar fashion and they're going strong never use oil and posted good figures on the dyno compared to other bikes of the same model.

I've followed this article for breaking in 4 bikes now. Break In Secrets--How To Break In New Motorcycle and Car Engines For More Power

I just wasn't sure if a diesel engine is a different creature. I'm not going to baby it but is the general consensus to avoid highway driving for the first 1000kms so as not to glaze the cylinders? Or getting on the highway is fine as long as you vary the rpm a little and go between 90,100,110?

I kind of wanted to drive it to Noosa this weekend but I can take the car instead if need be.

 

[KraftyPg]

Don't be scared to drive it, even if you are going to put 1000ks on it on the same day you drive it out of the showroom. Even if you can't get the car in for it's 1000K spit and polish until 2000ks you brought the thing to use so use it. Dealers can't always guarantee to service your car right at the interval listed in the book so there is going to be some leeway in what you do.

If you want to take it too Noosa do it just don't do it a 160ks for the whole trip.

 

[terryc]

I picked up my car from Sydney :

Which dealer?
Sutherland Nissan ($30K8+ABN) was the cheapest end of last month.

 

[Gorms83]

I got 30,500 for a black one with no Abn. 1/2 price for the towbar.

Sutho couldn't match it.

Pm me for the dealer if you want.

Signed up Oct 28.

 

[xtturbo]

Dont listen to this take it easy Rubbish.

- Find the biggest hills you can, put it in a high gear and load it up (so the turbo is boosting hard but you're not accelerating hard). This will bed the rings in.

- Never let it idle excessively or drive at a constant rpm. By avoiding constant rpm you're less likely to cause uneven wear.

I've run all three of my new cars in that way and I have never EVER had the slightest of engine problems. This is also how I used to run my go-karts in which were rebuilt every 6 months.

Cheers,

Jarrad

 

[SUNDAY]

Dont listen to this take it easy Rubbish.

- Find the biggest hills you can, put it in a high gear and load it up (so the turbo is boosting hard but you're not accelerating hard). This will bed the rings in.

- Never let it idle excessively or drive at a constant rpm. By avoiding constant rpm you're less likely to cause uneven wear.

I've run all three of my new cars in that way and I have never EVER had the slightest of engine problems. This is also how I used to run my go-karts in which were rebuilt every 6 months.

Cheers,

Jarrad

ahh i like this as i have the perfict hill for this, just tound the corner from home.

 

[Krankin]

Hmmmmmm.

interesting this one.

 

[Leprechaun]

I'm with Xtturbo, It's the best method for bedding in the rings, from then on the engine is wearing out not running in.

I believe the reason some people have bad fuel economy is because they were to gentle on the engine when new resulting in glazed bores and smoky engines.

 

[Dave]

I am not affraid to rev mine, she loves it.

Dave.