What battery for AUX
- Thread starter FatBoy89
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KraftyPg
Guest
If you want these things to run while the ignition is off work out how much power each item uses and you can work out how many AMP the battery needs to be.
Even if you plan on using these items with the engine running it would also pay to know the power consumption because the Alternator in a D22 is only about 80 AMP (Approx, I can't remember exactly what others have said it is but it's here somewhere) and you don't want to draw more than the Alternator can put in or nothing will last for long.
Even if you plan on using these items with the engine running it would also pay to know the power consumption because the Alternator in a D22 is only about 80 AMP (Approx, I can't remember exactly what others have said it is but it's here somewhere) and you don't want to draw more than the Alternator can put in or nothing will last for long.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Well that's a possibility, but maybe not needed. Any idea on the current rating of your fridge (not sure if it shouldn't be written on a plate on the fridge somewhere) and the wattage of you lights?
My fridge draws about 6A per hour (it's a bit less than that under real world conditions due to the way it switches) and I think from reading other peoples posts newer fridges are about the same. 6A per hour isn't that hard to put back into a battery from the alternator when the engine is running but depending on the power consumption of the lights as to whether you will start pushing the capabilities of the alternator.
For the record: I don't believe the everlasting circle of running inverters and 240V battery chargers is required like others might so my information does not include such techniques, my set up is and always has been the simple approach, battery, isolator, fuse, battery and it's never failed in 8 different cars.
My fridge draws about 6A per hour (it's a bit less than that under real world conditions due to the way it switches) and I think from reading other peoples posts newer fridges are about the same. 6A per hour isn't that hard to put back into a battery from the alternator when the engine is running but depending on the power consumption of the lights as to whether you will start pushing the capabilities of the alternator.
For the record: I don't believe the everlasting circle of running inverters and 240V battery chargers is required like others might so my information does not include such techniques, my set up is and always has been the simple approach, battery, isolator, fuse, battery and it's never failed in 8 different cars.
FatBoy89
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I like it the easy way. I don't beleive in needing all the inverters and stuff. More things to go wrong then...
The lights will be 100w. I won't be on constant more like a flood.. I was thinking maybe a led light bars instead?
Would and optima battery be good for what I want. Or is there cheaper deep cycles that are just as good?
The lights will be 100w. I won't be on constant more like a flood.. I was thinking maybe a led light bars instead?
Would and optima battery be good for what I want. Or is there cheaper deep cycles that are just as good?
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Personally I'd go for a deep cycle but that's purely a price thing. I haven't tried an Optima and figured I'd wait until the prices dropped until I did, there is some bad reports on some Optimas (but that's like everything) but it's hard to tell if people were misusing them or expecting the wrong things from them.
The LED bars (if suitable for the purpose) would drop the power consumptions down dramatically. I'm still not a huge fan of them but for what you are trying to do they might actually be well suited.
The LED bars (if suitable for the purpose) would drop the power consumptions down dramatically. I'm still not a huge fan of them but for what you are trying to do they might actually be well suited.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Mines a 150Amp Hour Century Deep Cycle (cant remember the model number), 2 years old, been 240v charged maybe 3 times and still going strong.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
I have no idea what you get under the bonnet of a D22, but mine is something like (and this is from memory when I built the battery box to suit it) 190mm deep 300mm wide and 250mm to the top of the terminals
RustyNav09
Member
I've been looking into wiring my isolator in this wknd if time allows but have become stuck when reading the instructions on wiring etc. Now a few diagrams I have seen have gone from main battery to fuse then to isolator to secondary battery(deep cycle) and the negative just runs from battery to isolator to second battery. Is this correct. Oh when I day fuse I mean mega 100amp unit and good size wire double insulated.
K
KraftyPg
Guest
Well my positive goes from the main battery to the isolator, isolator to a self resetting fuse, fuse to second battery and the negative goes direct from main battery to the second battery.
And realistically 100A fuse (just like the 150A isolators some shitty battery shops talk people into) is mega overkill especially since FB stated earlier that a D22's amp is only 65Amp.
And realistically 100A fuse (just like the 150A isolators some shitty battery shops talk people into) is mega overkill especially since FB stated earlier that a D22's amp is only 65Amp.
The D22 might only put out 65A from its alternator but it hauls 500A to turn the diesel engine over, so I'd be very conservative on that fuse. You're not protecting it from the charge rate of the alternator, you're protecting it from the dump rate of the battery, and it could conceivably be as much as the CCA figure on the battery - in mine, that's about 700A.
Which battery? It does definitely depend on how much coin you want to spend. Let me try and summarise the auxiliary battery range for you (this specifically excludes "SLI" - Starter, Lights, Ignition batteries).
"Ordinary" deep cycle batteries are the cheapest but require regular maintenance in the form of weekly/monthly fluid level & specific gravity checkups and 3-6 monthly "equalisation" charges (where the battery is deliberately overcharged to make all the cells perform equally). Expect one of these batteries to last you between 2 and 5 years.
"Gel" deep cycle batteries are the next dearest (about twice the cost, too). They MUST be charged at a lower voltage than normal batteries (14.1V max) - any more and air pockets will form in the gel until they stop conducting. I believe that gel batteries are well worth staying away from. Expect a well-treated gel to last you between 2 and 5 years as well.
"AGM" deep cycle batteries are the most expensive, come in different configurations and can be charged at phenomenal rates. They can be drained significantly with little or no long-term detriment and some - particularly the spiral wound ones designed for military use - can withstand an enormous pounding before they fail. Expect an AGM to last between 4 and 10 years.
Batteries might last longer than that. They might last less - if you over-discharge them, or physically mistreat them (high temps, cheap chargers) then their lifespan will be reduced.
If you're short on coin, grab a normal deep cycle and a bottle of distilled water. Otherwise, consider an AGM.
Which battery? It does definitely depend on how much coin you want to spend. Let me try and summarise the auxiliary battery range for you (this specifically excludes "SLI" - Starter, Lights, Ignition batteries).
"Ordinary" deep cycle batteries are the cheapest but require regular maintenance in the form of weekly/monthly fluid level & specific gravity checkups and 3-6 monthly "equalisation" charges (where the battery is deliberately overcharged to make all the cells perform equally). Expect one of these batteries to last you between 2 and 5 years.
"Gel" deep cycle batteries are the next dearest (about twice the cost, too). They MUST be charged at a lower voltage than normal batteries (14.1V max) - any more and air pockets will form in the gel until they stop conducting. I believe that gel batteries are well worth staying away from. Expect a well-treated gel to last you between 2 and 5 years as well.
"AGM" deep cycle batteries are the most expensive, come in different configurations and can be charged at phenomenal rates. They can be drained significantly with little or no long-term detriment and some - particularly the spiral wound ones designed for military use - can withstand an enormous pounding before they fail. Expect an AGM to last between 4 and 10 years.
Batteries might last longer than that. They might last less - if you over-discharge them, or physically mistreat them (high temps, cheap chargers) then their lifespan will be reduced.
If you're short on coin, grab a normal deep cycle and a bottle of distilled water. Otherwise, consider an AGM.
tommy222220_0
Member
I've been using 2 of these for around a year
12v 120AH DEEP CYCLE/MARINE/4WD/CARAVAN AGM BATTERY | eBay
60l engle + 2 led floodlights lasts around a week. They recharge well from the std alt. ~13.0V and I never let 'em drop below 12.0V
12v 120AH DEEP CYCLE/MARINE/4WD/CARAVAN AGM BATTERY | eBay
60l engle + 2 led floodlights lasts around a week. They recharge well from the std alt. ~13.0V and I never let 'em drop below 12.0V
K
KraftyPg
Guest
So where do I get a 700Amp fuse?
They make 'em, or you can parallel a pair of 350s or even 7 100A fuses - but you knew that.
The trick with fuses (I know YOU know this Krafty, but other readers might not) is not to have the fuse rated for the maximum current that CAN be delivered, but to have it JUST cover the expected load, so that if it's higher than it NEEDS to be (which generally indicates a fault) it will destroy itself and by doing so protect the device.
For example, the maximum an Engel 60L chest fridge will draw is 4A. It might peak that at about 6A for starting the compressor. The next size fuse up is 10A - and if you look in any Engel 60L fridge cable's fuse holder, that's the size you see.
So, if you're expecting the isolator to deliver (the isolator will tell you this) up to 30A, get a 40A fuse.
The trick with fuses (I know YOU know this Krafty, but other readers might not) is not to have the fuse rated for the maximum current that CAN be delivered, but to have it JUST cover the expected load, so that if it's higher than it NEEDS to be (which generally indicates a fault) it will destroy itself and by doing so protect the device.
For example, the maximum an Engel 60L chest fridge will draw is 4A. It might peak that at about 6A for starting the compressor. The next size fuse up is 10A - and if you look in any Engel 60L fridge cable's fuse holder, that's the size you see.
So, if you're expecting the isolator to deliver (the isolator will tell you this) up to 30A, get a 40A fuse.
justdrinkbeer
Member
While you're shopping get some BIG cables too!
K
KraftyPg
Guest
I'll just use 70 10amp cables parallel because I can get that stuff on a roll from SuperCrap
D
Dave
Guest
The D22 ZD30 alternator is 60 amp.
YD25's get a 90 amp alternator.
YD25's get a 90 amp alternator.
