BBM receiver hitch

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Aido

Aido

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Joined
Nov 25, 2009
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Location
Toolangi Vic
What is it? : Its a recovery point that mounts into any square section tow bar in place of the tongue and tow ball.
recover03.jpg

How much was it? : $49 delivered
Quality : Its a solid block of steel that fits snugly into the standard Nissan towbar and comes with a 4.7T rated shackle. Cant ask for more than that.

Not much to review as yet. I got it today (Fri) and yet only ordered it through their website on wed afternoon. So that's good. Not just good but excellent. Any business that is going to offer goods for sale over the internet has to be very prompt on delivery or they very quickly get a bad reputation so in that regard I would rate them highly for service. Free delivery and all. Have seen the same item - Bushranger - at A Really expensive parts Boutique store for $75 and since I'm a bit frugal I am really happy to get a bargain.

So heres the link
BBM Motorsports | 4WD & Japanese Performance Parts, Components | Kings Park NSW
 
ARB had one of those and suggested to me that I buy one, to use as the recovery hook on the rear of my D40, since there was a hook on the front but nothing on the rear. Can't recall the price, but not a bad idea at all.
 
Paid for itself and then some on its first day out.
Pulled a lunatic in a Navara out of the mud twice and managed to fend off a large tree that just jumped out of nowhere and stuck itself dead centre of my rear end as I backed up at one point.
Gave me alot of confidence to snatch - never done it before - and it felt like nothing more than heavy trailer pulling against the car when it took up ( funny that ).
Besides The Nav doesn't have rear recovery points anyway so I would highly recommend that anybody looking at going off road get one and a snatch strap with an additional shackle for the other end as a bare minimum. More confidence in using one of these rather than just using the hitch pin alone as it will spread the load across the pin and prevent it from deforming. Its alleged these have been tested to over 14t and it was the pin that sheared first. I wonder though at what point would the whole tow assembly break away from the vehicle? Is the pin an engineered failsafe do you think? Even under shock loading could 14t be applied? I think it could be. Thinking out loud now
Anyway buy one of these if it will suit your towbar. $50 delivered to your door within one working day. 5x thumbs up.
 
I wonder though at what point would the whole tow assembly break away from the vehicle? Is the pin an engineered failsafe do you think? Even under shock loading could 14t be applied?
Click to expand...

It's not something that I'm going to test, but my dealer steered me away from the genuine Nissan 3-tonne hitch because it wasn't mounted suitably for using load-levellers. The Hayman Reese hitch had extra mounts that allowed the torsional forces applied by the levellers to be translated into the vehicle chassis, rather than just bending the bolts that secured the hitch to the vehicle.

Those bolts would be tested to easily double their rating and then some. It's not just 3 tonnes the bolt is holding - it's 3 tonnes changing direction (eg accelerating then braking = 3 tonnes pulling then 3 tonnes pushing). The additional strain caused by imparting a momentum change needs to be absorbed and the focal point for that strain is that singular bolt (pin).

The tow assembly though is a different thing. The genuine assembly would handle a 3 tonne dynamic load (which means it could probably handle 6T gently and may not break until about 8T). I would never try testing that, of course, but if you design something to handle a maximum of 3T and then suggest that it can be used at its limit day after day, you're courting disaster. It might say 3T, but it's going to handle more. Exceeding it is dangerous anyway, because those dynamic forces have a way of multiplying.
 
Engieering aside.........kind of
4.7t shackle coupled to a block of steel held in place by a pin with a 14t shear fixed to a tow package that will bridle the applied force relatively evenly across both chassis rails ( angle of pull to be factored ). This is still a better option to a single fixed tow point, unless that tow point is fixed to the front and braced rearward the full length of the chassis - this is your best bet for safe recovery if you are to be pulled backwards or you are snatching someone else in a forward direction.
So 5 thumbs up. Effective and value for money.
 
I got one of these from BCF for $35 when they were on special. Almost lives in the tow receiver now.
 
they are not bad. but as cuz found out, no good if the towbar isn't up to it. they broke the support plate off. if they broke the other piddly little weld they wouyld have had a big chunk of steel flying back at them.
 
Old.Tony said:
It's not something that I'm going to test, but my dealer steered me away from the genuine Nissan 3-tonne hitch because it wasn't mounted suitably for using load-levellers. The Hayman Reese hitch had extra mounts that allowed the torsional forces applied by the levellers to be translated into the vehicle chassis, rather than just bending the bolts that secured the hitch to the vehicle.

Those bolts would be tested to easily double their rating and then some. It's not just 3 tonnes the bolt is holding - it's 3 tonnes changing direction (eg accelerating then braking = 3 tonnes pulling then 3 tonnes pushing). The additional strain caused by imparting a momentum change needs to be absorbed and the focal point for that strain is that singular bolt (pin).

The tow assembly though is a different thing. The genuine assembly would handle a 3 tonne dynamic load (which means it could probably handle 6T gently and may not break until about 8T). I would never try testing that, of course, but if you design something to handle a maximum of 3T and then suggest that it can be used at its limit day after day, you're courting disaster. It might say 3T, but it's going to handle more. Exceeding it is dangerous anyway, because those dynamic forces have a way of multiplying.
Click to expand...

In the ADR's there is a bunch of info about how towbars must be designed, the forces they must withstand etc. All in things like "kilo newtons" and such, which I have absolutely no understanding of but probably makes sense to an engineer :)
 
Biscuits said:
I can't get my towball piece out of my D40. It is jammed in there good, which sucks as need to reverse it to increase my tow height and would like a recovery unit for my hitch.
Click to expand...
Get godzilla to rip it out LOL
 
Biscuits said:
I can't get my towball piece out of my D40. It is jammed in there good, which sucks as need to reverse it to increase my tow height and would like a recovery unit for my hitch.
Click to expand...

Er, you have removed the lock bolt and the pin?

Don't have any shims stuck in there and wedging it?

Flooded it with oil and left it for 24 hours?

Tried knocking it IN and well as out?

Obtained pentrene(?) and tried that? I think that requires blow torch for best results/penetration.

Something must be seriously bent?
Any pics?

Otherwise, a couple of tree hitchs around a massive bugger, engage 4WD low and drive directly away.
 

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