"limping" STX manual, engine light on.

[Chris C]

Hi all,

I have an issue with my car, a 2011 Spain built STX manual 2.5. 98,000km, all good until last week.

I had the engine light (orange engine shape) come on the dash, first time ever, car had no power at all, as it has done before, (but never got the engine light), full tank of fuel, checked the fuel tank vent, which has caused the issue before, all good.

I can get the car to run as normal by truning engine off for a few seconds and restarting, I took off battery earth to clear light and all seemed ok.

But I tried several times to get the codes to come up with the key on, 3 seconds, floor accel 5 times, wait 7 seconds, floor again, wait 10.

NO CODES, nothing. Today on the way to work, the light comes on again, I restart, it runs fine, for a few km then no power again, did it several times on the way to work, real PITA.

How do I get codes out,?
Is there a list of codes somewhere?

What code readers are guys using that work? I also have a 2010 Prado D4D and a 2012 Tritton 2.5 CRD (sons car) so a multi purpose reader would be handy.

At the moment, my car is just about unusable as it is going into "limp mode" just about all the time.

On the weekend as it was due, I changed engine oil and filter, fuel filter (the big $150 unit in the engine bay) cleaned the K&N air filter, it seemd to be going like a rocket, right up until it went "limp" this morning.

The "limping" issue with my ute has always seemed to be fuel related, fuel tank vent, but has not been an issue for over 80,000km

Is there another filter, either in tank or in line before the engine bay mounted filter?

The local Nissan dealers are useless, I would not go there, ever again.

If someone can direct me to a method of getting the codes out, or a good reader to use, and location of any primary fuel filters.

Do these have an electric in line fuel pump? clutching at straws now.

Anyone know where I can get a service manual?

Thanks

 

[4BYFOR]

Hey mate might be your fuel rail relief valve, shimming it will most likely stop it from going into limp. Have a search for "shimming fuel rail" here on the forum lots to read and try out different ways to pin point the issue.

 

[ourd40]

If you changed your fuel filter you will need to do the reset, re-learn for the fuel pump..
Search here for something related but thats what it sounds like especially if it was going extremely well after as the rail pressures will be up high..

 

[ourd40]

Try this procedure in this link,

http://www.navara.asia/showthread.php?t=6147

 

[4 naving]

suction control valve... about $150 and easy to replace. front drivers side of engine. ill try to find a pic in the manual and post it..

 

[4 naving]

This is the part. I have seen them for around $150 maybe try nizz bits. I cont post pic fron manual for some reason. Id bet money this is the problem, but check all the earth straps first particularly the one to the motor as they can play havoc with this sort of thing too and it doesn't cost anything to check them and it could be as simple as that..

 

[4 naving]

Sorry the links didn't work.

Edit: I fixed 'em for ya.

 

[Aussie Frontier]

Sorry the links didn't work.

copy and paste the link into a browser and it should be ok

 

[Chris C]

Thanks for the reply guys, I had pretty much settled on doing the SCV when you all replied, so I think it is going to be done.

I also wandered out to the car just then and it gave me the codes, I tried 10 times on Saturday, with no luck, worked first go today.

this is what I got.
10 short flash,
small pause,
2 short flash,
small pause,
11 short flash.

then a long pause, 1 longer flash, then long pause

then

10 short flash,
small pause
2 short flash,
small pause
1 short flash.

This pattern repeated over and over, I checked and counted several times to ensure it was only 2 codes.

Where can I find a list of codes?

Can the SCV be cleaned? I would like to try this before I replace it.

Thanks again.

Chris

 

[4 naving]

Id still check the earth straps and clean them wd40 ect. Not real sure on the copes I think its
0211 or 021 something like that which is coming up as injector circuit malfunction. someone on here may be able to interpret the flashes exactly then I can look up the codes accurately.

 

[4 naving]

Sorry aussi you lost me after you said copy... Dam computers... didn't know they had bowsers... ha LoL

 

[Chris C]

We,,,

I decided to pull the SCV this arvo, after the longest drive home ever, with zero power and over 100km to get home.

I removed it and it is not the sort you can pull apart. it looks like this one

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Nissan-Na...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4acb08d5b7

Not the sort you can pull apart and clean.

So i cleaned the MAF, just in case, i checked the line from tank to filter, blew back through it to ensure it was not blocked, primed the fuel again, did an ECU reset and went for a drive.

bloody thing is the same, goes OK for about 1km, then gets slower and slower, no engine light, feels just like running out of fuel, will no free rev past 4000rpm, under any sort of load it wont go past 2000 rpm.

Down hill in say 4th you can rev it out a little more, but as soon as you hit a hill, it dies again.

Can anyone tell me if the two different typed of SCV are interchangeable?

I did a code read again when I got home, all though no dash light it still flashed out the

10 short-2 short-11 short, over and over again.

Can anyone tell me what that code is? or where to find a list of codes.

I was having a great run, from 20,000 to 98,000km this thing had been great, not its back to old tricks again.

I have checked the fuel tank vent and even drove home with the cap off just for fun. Tank is 3/4 full, the primer bulb picks up fuel straight away and when I parked it back from the test drive, the line from filter to the fuel pump was full of fuel.

Starts and idles fine, just in "limp mode".

Please help, this is driving me nuts.

 

[4BYFOR]

P0211 - Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit Malfunction P0211 means that the PCM detected a fault in the injector or the wiring to the injector. It monitors the injector and when the injector is activated, the PCM expects to see the voltage pulled "low" or close to zero. I'm not quite sure that it's the SCV by that code mate this is what came up on the net. You can try replacing the SCV and see if it works

 

[Chris C]

P0211 - Cylinder 11 Injector Circuit Malfunction P0211 means that the PCM detected a fault in the injector or the wiring to the injector. It monitors the injector and when the injector is activated, the PCM expects to see the voltage pulled "low" or close to zero. I'm not quite sure that it's the SCV by that code mate this is what came up on the net. You can try replacing the SCV and see if it works

Thanks,

but last time I looked my engine was a 4 cyl, not a 12

I had a look too, it appears the P0211 is a generic petrol engine OBD2 code, from what I have read the diesels are different, but not sure how.

I need to get hold of a OBd2 reader to plug in, reading blinking lights is a bit hit and miss for me.

Anyone in the Maitland area have a reader they would like to plug into my ute? I dont mind spending the coin to get it going, just hate to waste $$$ on parts I dont need.

could it be as simple as the fuel filter? the one fitted is non genuine (just checked) it looks like the nissan one, but the small black "T" doe not function like the nissan one. Could I be getting air back through the filter causing a low fuel pressure situation?

driving me nuts.

When it is going fine, its a rocket, but within 2 mins, its a slug. it feels so much like its running out of fuel.

 

[Old.Tony]

We were in Maitland earlier this afternoon, shame I didn't see this then. I use a bluetooth OBD adapter. Free software for your smartphone will grab the code for you.

I'm wondering about your fuel lines. I'm thinking there might be a possible blockage in the fuel pickup inside the tank, or there's a fuel line that's been crushed.

Could also be the relief valve, I would have thought SCV too but while there have been a few SCVs replaced, we don't know if cleaning would have fixed those - which means we don't know how many SCVs were actually faulty - they may have just been dirty.

 

[4 naving]

Id stick a genuine filter on it as the a/m ones have been prone to not sealing properly. the t piece is the fuel line return. it should freely return to the filter or tank. The codes I looked up being 021 without the "p" also show up crank angle sensor. id duck under the car and unplug and clean it. its on drivers side back of motor between sump and gearbox. AN incorrect reading hear will trigger limp.

 

[camo.b]

Had a issue with mine last week.turned out to be bad connections on the fuel rail sensor.(slightly corroded and a pin pushed out) what work has been done to the car already? Meaning what sensors have been unplugged...i was quite surprised that my cr pressor sensor harness plug pushed a pin out the back of the plug...that isnt supose to happen ever!!!..sensor plugs are a easy thing to check of the list.
One way to test the scv/fuel pump pressure is with engine off....pull the plug off the back of the scv...start car.....if it knocks horribly its getting full pressure...pump passes pressure test....no knocking pressure is a problem..
Id say this would need to be done while in limp mode.

 

[Chris C]

Id stick a genuine filter on it as the a/m ones have been prone to not sealing properly. the t piece is the fuel line return. it should freely return to the filter or tank. The codes I looked up being 021 without the "p" also show up crank angle sensor. id duck under the car and unplug and clean it. its on drivers side back of motor between sump and gearbox. AN incorrect reading hear will trigger limp.

Hi all,

I had more of a play yesterday afternoon, I also went a got a new factory filter today, but I can’t fit it yet as the car is at home.

BUT, the A/M filter “T” bit is very different in function to the factory one.

Both filter “T”s have an arrow showing flow direction, when I blow through the in direction of arrow, the A/M one flows straight through until you blow hard, then it half closes and puts some flow to the filter, some goes out the return. You can hear the “check valve” bouncing, it won’t hold a vacuum from the in port if the return port is blocked.

If I blow into the old factory “T” it goes straight through, no matter how hard you blow, it holds vacuum on in port if you block outlet port, but wont allow anything from inlet to go to filter from inlet port, but will allow air to go to filter from return if you apply vacuum to filter side.

The New genuine filter “T” is different again, it flows a small amount of air straight through if blow soft, if you blow hard it closes, it will hold a vacuum and does not allow flow into filter from the return line.

I am wondering if the “T” on my old filter has failed and is allowing fuel pressure to escape to tank OR it is allowing air to be pulled into the filter from the tank via the return line as it is open from return line to filter, the new filter is not.

I will fit it up this arvo, I will also check the crank angle sensor, as it is straight below the oil filter and may have crap (oil) as it is near on impossible to change the oil and not mess that area.

I have bought a Bluetooth OBD2 code reader/data tool too.

 

[jjohn]

Just a side note.....

I notice you have the K&N filter.
Its been mentioned a few times on the z forum as an issue for the MAF sensor (2 of on the v6) when over oiled.

 

[Chris C]

Just a side note.....

I notice you have the K&N filter.
Its been mentioned a few times on the z forum as an issue for the MAF sensor (2 of on the v6) when over oiled.

I have had the K&N in for over 70,000km and has been cleaned several times (each service), I have not had an issue in this time, I also pulled and cleaned the MAF last night, it looked like new.

I will check a few plugs tonight, also check the Crank angle sensor too, as it is in a bad spot to cop muck, both from the road and the engine oil filter change.

I really think it will be fuel or fuel filter related as the car has the same symtoms every time, with no codes. (last fryday was the first time its ever thrown a code, I still dont know what it is for though)