Really starting to piss me off...

[timmy_larco]

Hey guys and girls,
I have a 2010 Nav Spain D40. It has been doing this thing where, when im driving, it just seems to cut out. The car stays on but the throttle pedal seems to become useless. It completely loses power, when i put my foot down pretty much nothing happens, it does pic up revs really really slowly but not enough for the turbo to kick in. I have to stop the car in the middle of the road and turn it off then back on again, and everything is fine. I has started to do it more and more, it is really quite dangerous. It did it tonight, going up and hill in second then bang it cut out, it loses the power so fast that i almost hit my head of the wheel. I can change gear but still gives no revs. Its so hard to explain, and whenever i take it into nissan they say nothing shows up. Which is shit cause they wont fix it. Anyone else had a similar problem? Anyone know what it might be?

Cheers

 

[scottybobcat]

An engine code has come up mate and it has gone into limp mode so you dont damage the engine.Take it to Nissan and get the code read and it will tell them what sensor has shit itself

 

[Old.Tony]

The Thai builds were having an issue with the turbocharger actuator, which caused a loss of boost and felt like no power. I wonder if yours has a similar problem?

When it happens, pull over without turning off the engine and take a look at the actuator, there's a small shaft that moves in and out about 3-5mm and should be in near constant motion. The actuator is a round device that sits physically on top of the turbocharger and you can see it and the shaft without removing anything, just open the bonnet.

If that's looking normal then my next guesses would be:

1) Fuel delivery. Air in the line may not throw a code but can cause the pump to de-prime and reduce rail pressure. Give your primer bulb a few squeezes - you should only get (at most) 3-4 squeezes before the thing is too hard to press.

2) Crank angle sensor. It might not be reading properly, it might be slightly damaged, but it needs to read properly or the ECU doesn't know where the engine is in its rotation and won't know when to inject fuel.

3) MAF sensor. In your air intake is a sensor that determines how fast the air is moving through, which (through calculations) tells the ECU how much air is available on the intake side. This, with the figure given by the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) in the exhaust tells the ECU if it's under/overfuelling. If the MAF sensor has muck in it, your air filter isn't keeping the place clean, so that really needs to be checked.

4) Collapsing air intake. The hoses between the air filter and the turbocharger intake can collapse when they're hot. This dramatically reduces the airflow causing the engine to stall, as the revs drop the airflow reduces and the engine is left to idle perfectly, but revving it will cause the intake to collapse again. You should be able to see this when someone revs the engine to 3500-4000rpm while you are watching.

Hope some of that gives you some ideas and some help.

 

[Leprechaun]

Does it happen when your revving out the engine? If so, then I'll guess your fuel rail sensor is causing the trouble.

 

[Bosshog]

4) Collapsing air intake. The hoses between the air filter and the turbocharger intake can collapse when they're hot. This dramatically reduces the airflow causing the engine to stall, as the revs drop the airflow reduces and the engine is left to idle perfectly, but revving it will cause the intake to collapse again. You should be able to see this when someone revs the engine to 3500-4000rpm while you are watching.

Tony you'll know doubt be rapt to hear that Nissan have rectified this known problem with older series D40s. Current model has much better piping which is also wrapped with bracing. Grrr.

 

[timmy_larco]

Thanks guys,
It does not do it when over reving. It jist does it randomly. It has done it while sitting at the lights before. You see the revs drop below a grand thrn try and get back up. The car shutters a little bit. Then when i go to tske off just has shit all power. I have not really been able to have a look under the bonnet cause it always seems to happen on a main rd. So i cant really pull over.
The revs go up wen i put the throttle on but so slow. Like i can puah it straight to the floor in any gear and it just moves ever so slow. So it has no responsiveness from the throttle.

 

[timmy_larco]

Also as for going into limp mode, i have had it back a nissan a few times but they keep coming bzck all clear. My machanic said they wont be able to find it unless they test it while happaning. Which is impossible to do cause when it happens it is not drivable, so i cant get it to nissan.

 

[Bosshog]

Also as for going into limp mode, i have had it back a nissan a few times but they keep coming bzck all clear. My machanic said they wont be able to find it unless they test it while happaning. Which is impossible to do cause when it happens it is not drivable, so i cant get it to nissan.

Don't give up with up Nissan. You have new vehicle with an obvious problem. Thump the desk a little harder (remain firm but nice though) - that's what I'd do.

 

[MAD D40]

I had a similar problem where it would just stall and the only way to get it to start again was to prime the fuel.
I took it to Nissan nothing was fixed took it to another Nissan dealer and they remapped the fuel pump to suit 4x4 driving. It has never stalled since. (on it own anyway)

Maybe try another dealer. Maybe try getting it remapped also.

 

[Aussie Frontier]

Maybe an ECU reset ?

 

[timmy_larco]

Cheers guys, its going in this Saturday, to get a new steering wheel. I have told them about this problem again and the are going to have another look. Can i just take it to any nissan dealer or will it cost me ?

 

[ONLOCK]

actually last time i was out at wombat my d40 did the same thing you just described mad d40. stalled then wen i went to start it it started and stalled straight away but all good after then. weird

 

[KraftyPg]

its going in this Saturday, to get a new steering wheel.

See if you can get them to quote you a price, the twats I went to told me the wheel had an RRP of $1200 and they replaced the whole thing due to paint peeling on the plastic.

Can i just take it to any nissan dealer or will it cost me ?

Yes, their computer tells then the full history of the car from the VIN so don;t be afraid to take it to a different dealer and see if you get better treatment, apparently not all dealers are the same and some are willing to help people.

 

[ralphn]

timmy_larco
When you say 2010 model has it got the yd3k more powerful engine or the yd25 you can tell by looking at the intercooler pipes are the wraped with stainless wire or not

If its the old engine it sounds like the suction control valve is being dodgy (normally code 1272 frp valve will be the code that gets recorded but not all the time .
And they are very quick and easy to change

If its the 2010 model then the best thing you can do is when it goes limp keep driving until you get it to nissan ( this will alow them to see the problem happening so dont turn it off ) i think from memory the code is p0126 b or some thing along them lines its for the gas pressure sensor just near the turbo you will see it its the sensor out in the open with the small peice of rubber hose connected to it .
Or have a dummy spit at the dealer and tell them you want techline involved ( nissans help line ) and they will make something happen pretty quickly
hope this helps

 

[timmy_larco]

Cheers guys,
I took it on on sat and they replaced the steering wheel with a new one. That was all free. They hooked it up to the computer but said nothing came up so i had to rebook it for a whole day so they could run more tests on it. But as i went to drive off about 100m from the dealer, it all happened again. So i pulled over and called them and they sent someone up the road with the computer. It came up with an fuel leak problem. The bloke said it will print all the errors out when he goes back to the office and then they can work on it on weds. He didnt know exactly what it was. So we shall see come weds.

 

[Ridgie]

Good luck mate -at least there is some light now.

 

[KraftyPg]

What gets me is how these guys can run all their tests and say nothing is wrong yet 100m from the dealer the problem re-appears. The mechanics did that on my old mans crewman, he reported the noise in the diff, they looked at it and said they road tested it and there was nothing wrong, dad was p'd off so he took the mechanic for a drive and the noise started as soon as they hit the bitumen. If these pricks are going to charge for testing, be it on the computer or the road the least they could do is actually do the bloody tests.

 

[timmy_larco]

So the dealer had it for the whole day, and they reckon they fixed the problem. He said that there was a switch that had not been switched on the oil filter at its last service. Of course he said that cause i didnt get it serviced with them i took it to the mechanic i have always used. Who im sure knows a hell of a lot more than they do. Anyway, so the guy said that must have been causing all the problems, and i was lucky but they wont charge me for the work.

It was all good for about a week and a bit. Until yesterday! When it did the exact same problem twice. And one of those times it put me in a extremely dangerous situation. I was in a right hand turning lane turning across 2 lanes of oncoming traffic. Bit enough space came so i went to take off, and you guessed it it went into limp mod. Thank good the cars coming towards me saw it all and slowed down in time.

So it looks like im back to square one.

 

[Old.Tony]

Okay, let me ask something important.

When this occurs, how much throttle are you using, and how many rpm is the engine doing JUST BEFORE the "limp mode" happens?

If you're using MOST or ALL of the throttle, and RPM is up over 3,000, there's a good chance that your turbocharger is overboosting.

To be happening at the frequency yours is, I'd be highly suspicious of either the turbo actuator itself, the MAF sensor reading low or perhaps there's an issue with the lines controlling the actuator. Here is the first thing that I would try:

Inspect the turbo actuator so that you know what it's supposed to do while the engine is idling (the little arm underneath should move in and out across a range of about 3-5mm). Now drive the vehicle in a safe area in the exact same manner that has caused the failure in the past in order to cause the failure and without switching off the engine, pop the bonnet and watch that actuator arm again at idle. Is it doing the same thing, or has it stopped? It could be a faulty control circuit or the switching valve for the vacuum line controlling the actuator.

Then again, if you could repeat the problem at will, taking the service manager for a drive in it would be highly advantageous.

 

[Boosted]

My work Patrol with the ZD30 is doing the exact same things. I was almost t boned but a semi from it doing it. Does yours do nothing up to about half throttle and then will slowly excelerate with the foot flat to the floor?
I have taken it to good ole nissan in town but they can never fix it, they keep telling me I have water in my fuel but everytime I test it the fuel is clean.